Prepare your Bow and arrow for Hunting
Written by Tom Brissee

The fever rises in us all. This is the time of year when the focus switches strongly over to bowhunting. The pursuit of game using archery tackle holds a special place in our hearts because of the sights, smells, sounds and special challenges that it holds. Some of us have been focused since the last archery-deer season ended, shooting archery leagues all winter, and 3-D shoots since the snow melted early this spring. There are others who put their equipment away and don't get it out until the cool weather of early fall arrives. Either way, each bowhunter needs to get into serious preparation mode now. It's time to check out what needs to be done to get that bow ready to bring home the venison, or other quarry of choice.

First, let's back up a bit. Proper storage is important if you want your bow to last, reduce poundage before putting it away for an extended period of time. When I first started the sport of archery, I became addicted with shooting a bow so it never got much rest. I did let it sit for about 3 months and, when I got it out, I noticed a slight tilt in my cams. Something that was fixed by purchasing new cam axles. If I had reduced the draw weight, I probably wouldn't have had the bent axles. Learn from my mistake.

Compound bows for hunting should be thoroughly checked for wear and tear from last hunting season, or from frequent use. Carefully go over your bow and look for cracks, loose screws (tighten them), broken string strands in the string and cables (replace your string and cables), warpage in the limbs, bent cam-axles causing cam tilt, dirt and other debris, anything that looks out of the ordinary. This is a good general rule for anyone shooting a bow. It's better to be aware of a potential problem before it ruins your hunting season. If your not confident that you can do a thorough check on your bow, get to your local bow shop as soon as possible and have them check things out. It's worth the effort and any small fee they may charge.

There are 2 other components that need to be looked at in addition to your bow and everything attached to it: 1. your arrows and 2. your broadheads. Check your arrows for straightness and your fletchings for good condition. Whether you shoot arrows with vanes or feathers, they need to be in good condition in order to stabilize your arrow properly and provide good arrow flight. Arrow nocks and inserts need to be straight in line with the arrow shaft. If nocks are not straight, your arrows will be pushed off course when you shoot them. Straight inserts are important so your broadheads fly in a straight line. Spin test your arrows, either with a commercial spin-tester or using a cardboard box with two v-shaped grooves cut in each side at the same height. Put a box or piece of paper at the broadhead end of your arrow and draw a spot on it that lines up with the broadhead tip. This will be your guide-spot. Screw on a broadhead and spin the arrow while it is sitting on the spin-tester or cardboard box. The tip should point to the guide spot as you spin the arrow. If the tip moves from the guide spot, your insert is probably not straight. Another way to check for insert-straightness is to spin the broadhead tipped arrow on it's tip, vertically on a hard, smooth surface, such as a table top. As the arrow spins, watch the arrow shaft just above the broadhead. If you see the arrow shaft wobble, your insert is not straight. Double check each arrow by screwing in a different broadhead and testing them again. The broadhead itself may not be straight causing the arrow to appear as if the insert is the culprit. Double checking assures that your initial test results are accurate. Check all your arrows and put the non-straight insert arrows to the side for use with field tips. Inserts of aluminum arrows can sometimes be straightened by applying heat to the insert end of the arrow, and rotating the broadhead while holding the arrow shaft in place. This will rotate the insert in the arrow shaft. Re-spin test the arrows for insert straightness and you may find that you have solved the problem.

**Paper tune your bow to make sure that your arrow is coming out of your bow a straight as possible. This involves shooting a field-tipped arrow through paper from a distance of 5 or 6 feet. The paper should be placed so the arrow goes straight (horizontally and vertically) through the paper, not at an angle. Also, be sure that there is an adequate backstop beind the paper to stop the arrow. The backstop needs to be far enough behind the paper so the arrow passes completely through before it hits the backstop. As the arrow passes through the paper, the point, arrow shaft and fletching will punch a hole in the paper. By examining the hole, you will be able to tell where the point went through and where the fletching went through. The point will leave a small round hole and the fletching will leave a Y-shaped hole (if using 3-feather or vane-fletched arrows). Depending on where the fletching hole is in relation to the point hole, adjustments can be made to your arrow rest until the point hole is in the center of the Y-shaped fletching hole or very slightly below the exact center of the Y-hole. Paper tuning is usually done at a few distances and the adjustments made to the arrow rest, and occasionally the nocking point, are very small adjustments. Various bow manufacturers have more information on their websites about paper tuning and what adjustments to make, based on the type of hole that shows on the paper after the arrow is shot. Paper tuning a bow will make tuning broadheads much easier.

Check your broadheads by using the spin test above and arrows that you are sure have straight inserts. Very seldom will you find broadheads that come out of the package not straight but testing will show whether they are or aren't. A bent broadhead or non-straight insert will cause erratic arrow flight. It is important to shoot broadheads prior to the season to assure that they fly well. This will make sure that you are confident when the time for that all important shot opportunity comes around during the season. Once you have a few hunting arrows put together that hit the mark with broadheads attached, replace the used blades with new, sharp blades, or resharpen your arrows so the blades will shave hair off of your arm (shaving sharp). Put these sharp broadhead tipped arrows to the side until the season opens. Arrows that fly straight, without wobbling in flight, and have razor sharp broadheads will yield maximum penetration because all of the kinetic (motion) energy is being used to push the broadhead through your quarry.

Check all your hunting equipment before taking to the woods. Sounds like common sense thinking, but there's problems that occur every hunting season that can be avoided. Best of luck to all bowhunters.